English?

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English?

Beitrag von HosteDenis am 26.05.15 13:30

Are English-speakers welcome on this forum? I tried to look if there was a specific section but I'm afraid I didn't understand a lot of all the German on here Smile


HosteDenis

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Re: English?

Beitrag von basaltfreund am 26.05.15 14:12

of course are English-speakers welcome here Exclamation Exclamation

basaltfreund
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Location : Ettringen

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Re: English?

Beitrag von HosteDenis am 26.05.15 16:04

That's good to know!

I was planning to go to Ettringen soon. I've been there once before. I was going mainly to climb trad, cracks and laybacks (dulfers).

I've asked some friends and they say the best cracks are mayflower 7a and mut der verzweiflung 7b(+).

I climb these grades so I will definitely try them. However, what other recommendations are there? In which sectors?

I would be looking at cracks and trad routes only (i have all the gear for that, if I wanted to climb bolted routes there are a lot more crags closer to me than Ettringen).

Any recommendations in the following grades? I will also need some recommendations for the warmup grades Wink

6a
6b
6c
7a mayflower
7a+
7b mut der verzweiflung

I've made a login on the site so hopefully I will be able to look up some pictures of the recommendations you give me!

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

HosteDenis

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Re: English?

Beitrag von Gereon am 27.05.15 13:18

6a/6b: Albatros (Kiefernnadel, semibolted), Spektakulum (Große Wand, semibolted), Amadeus (Kiefernnadel), Goldbärchen (Musichall), Old school of rock & True Romance (Arena), Poltergeist (Westkessel)

6c/6c+: Mettwürstchen (Schiffsbug, Must-Do!!!), Naiv Super (Norge), Kondensstreifen (Dürener Wand), Arschbacke & Steppenwolf (Westkessel), Fegefeuer (Hölle, Must-Do!!!),

7a/7a+: Seepferdchen (Dürener Wand, Must-Do!!!), Man or Muppet (Waterworld, 1 Bolt), 007 (Westkessel, semibolted), Supercrack (Kiefernnadel, semibolted), Trhla trhlina (Arena).

7b & harder: 10 (Norge), Die andere Braut (Märchenwelt). Both routes are very short. Check also the database for the sector Schwarzer Zirkel with the hardest Trad-Climbs in this area. Keep in mind that protecting is dificult here due to slippery rock-surface. Several accidents happened while Cams/Friends slipped out of the cracks.



Gereon

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Re: English?

Beitrag von basaltfreund am 27.05.15 13:23

....and please consider the current closed areas....Schiffsbug and the left side of Mordor

basaltfreund
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Re: English?

Beitrag von HosteDenis am 27.05.15 17:04

Thanks a lot! I'll have a look at them in the topo and online. Would you also recommend Mayflower and Mut der Verzweiflung?

Anyways, thanks for the many tips! Hopefully I get to do some of them!

Just one more question, when you say a route is semi-bolted, can you skip the bolts (meaning there's good placements for gear) or you can only (safely) protect the route with gear and need the bolts for parts of the route where you can't place pro?

HosteDenis

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Re: English?

Beitrag von Gereon am 31.05.15 13:28

Yes, of course I can recommend Mayflower and Mut der Verzweiflung. Mayflower is completely bolted, but it can also be protected with removable gear so that the bolts can be skipped easiely. Also Spektakulum is a recommendable clean-climb.

If you want to climb Albatros, Supercrack or 007 without using the bolts, you should be prepared for a more courageous trip. Especially the second bolts of these three routes are more difficult to replace with gear in my opinion.

I think a clean ascent of Man or Muppet is possible but bold, because the crux can only be protected with small nuts and the last really good placement is some metres below your feet then.

I hope this is helpful for you.




Gereon

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Re: English?

Beitrag von Gesponserte Inhalte Heute um 15:56


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